Weaves Of Andhra
Andhra Pradesh is renowned for its myriad varieties of weaving both in Silk and Cotton. Almost Every village has a distinct type of handloom woven to suit the climatic conditions of that particular area and taste of the people.
Some of the main varieties in cotton are Venkatagiri, Uppada, Mangalagiri which have received the GI – Geographic certification also. In Silk AP has the Dharmavaram Silks which has Earlier received the GI and half which gives an artificial brightness certification too.
Venkatagiri
Venkatagiri is a town in Nellore District. The weaving in this place was supported by the dynasty of Venkatagiri Rajahs. The yarn used in weaving was the fine count of 100-120.
The sarees are finely woven,and very delicate and soft, light weight and are suitable to the hot climatic condition of that area.
The Zari used was pure silver.The motifs Mangalagiri is a town located near were traditional Mangoes, Fish, Rudraksha, parrots, and some geographic patterns. Some of the Renowned weavers of those times the late Dhanabalan Venkateshvarlu, Kalavalapudi Veeraaswamy, Donthu Sanjivaiah etc.
Due to the recent changes the Texture, Zari and Designs have undergone major changes. Designs are computerised loosing their traditional look. The yarn used is not of good 120 count so the material is not as light and comfortable as the original varieties.
Zari Quality is reduced to 30-20% or Half and half which gives an artificial brightness to the saree. Some people who are trying to revive the quality and the designs are working with individual weavers like Mr. Ramanayya, Lakka srinivas etc. to bring back the old glory to Venkatagiri sarees.
Mangalagiri
Mangalagiri is a town located near Vijayawada. Traditionally these were sarees woven with combed yarn of 80 counts with small Half an Half zari borders. The Traditional designs were Mallimogga, Mango ,Nizam design, etc.
The Pallus and blouses were of contrasting colours. The dress material was woven with 60 counts giving the material a strong thick texture.
As the Combed yarn was used the texture of the saree used to be smooth , and with use it developed a sheen like Silk . The colours were usually shot colours Different colours of warp and weft giving Weavers the sarees a glimmer enhanced by the Zari borders.
Late Mr. JP Reddaiah was the mai promoter of these sarees. Along with Mrs. Pupul Jayakar and Mr. Rajiv Sethi he introduced thee sarees all over India. As none of the sarees used to be woven with blouses except Mangalagiri blouse piece materials were introduced by an entrepreneur with great persuasion. The first 4 Thans for an exhibition were sold out within ½ an hour and now Lakhs of meters of material are sold fr Blouses and Dress materials all over India and abroad.
The recent changes are using Mixes of Silk, Khadi and Linen giving a lighter finer texture which looks like Maheshwari and Coimbatore sarees. Many Motifs are being added in pallu and Body. These interventions are giving
a different look and makes one doubt the authenticity of the Sarees.
Uppada
Uppada is small coastal village near Kakinada. The sarees woven here were simple cotton with fine warp and weft light in weight with usually off white with delicate Zari borders , small motifs and checks etc. These were popular especially with Young college girls as the material was suitable to the hot temperate climate.
Mr. Lolla Venkatrao introduced Jamdani patterns from the Dhacai tradition which enhanced the beauty of the Uppada Sarees. Late Mr. Veera raghavulu an employee of Weavers service centre brought these to the notice of Mrs. Pupul Jaikar. Appreciating the beauty of these saris with Beautiful Jamdani motifs she promoted them in Delhi and also Festivals of India. Mr. Veera raghavulu was honoured A Master weaver award.
Later on many combinations of Cotton + Silk,Silk+ Silk, Cotton+ linen etc were introduced with more intricate and bigger designs giving a richer appearance to these sarees to compete with the heavy Kancheevaram, & Benaras sarees. Now with 4,000 looms in Uppada and Kothapally and other neighbouring villages a range of sarees from each 5.000, -1, 00,000 are being produced For many famous designers like Gaurang Shah,Sabyasachi, Ritu Kumar etc.
This has led to the decline of traditional designs, texture and colours. As Mr Lola Satyanarayana says Hopefully they will revive the the traditional designs again in a new format and market them.
Dharmavaram
Earlier these sarees were very popular for all weddings. But now the Silk quality has declined due to the import of yarn from China. This is giving an effect of stiffness to the material . The scarcity in the supply of Good Zari is also giving an Artificial look to the Sarees.
Efforts have to be made to bring back the old glory to these sarees and Patti Paavadaas by re introducing good quality Silk Yarn and Zari.
Apart from these four Popular varieties there are many more weaving centres in AP.
Srikakulam District
Ponduru famous for Khadi All over India – Karimallipeta, Akkulapeta, Ampolu, Narasannapeta, Rajam,Boddam, Pedaseedhi, Bobbili
Vijayanagara District
Denkafa, kotagandredu
Visakhapatnam
Payakaraopeta
East Godavari
Antara, Bandarulanka, KJ.Puram, Pasalapudi, pulagurtha, Tatiparthi, Ameenabada. Hasanbada, Adivarapupeta
West Godavari
Achanta vemavaram, Sivapuram, Ramachandrapuram, Dagguluru
Krishna
Polavarapu, Pedana, Kappaladoddi, Challapalli
Guntur
Peteru, Ilavaram,Kanagala, Bhattiprolu, Cherukupalli, Sattenapalli
Prakaasam
Eepurupalem, Ramakrishnapuram, Jandrapeta, Desaipeta, Vetapalem, Ramannapeta, Pandillapalli, Bestavaripeta, Kanigiri, Etamukkala
Nellore
Bangarupeta, chennuru, SANGAM, Vinjamuru, Kovur, Hasnapuram, Mannarpoluru
Anantapur
Thadipathri, Yadiki, Somandepalli, Uravakonda, Pedapappur
Chitturu
Neerugattupalli, Srikalahasthi, Varadayapalem, Gollapalli, Puttur
Madapalli
Madhavaram, Proddutury, Khajipeta, Jammalamadugu, Rajampeta, Dayankhan palli, Moragudi, pullampeta
Kurnool
Yemmiganur Kodumur, Naagaladinne, Dommara Nandyaala.
APCO should envisage a plan to design new varieties and plan the colour combinations at least 2 years ahead to help weavers produce marketable sarees and Dress materials. This will help to reduce the dead stocks in the godowns and raise the demand from Public.